Tucked away just off California Avenue is a hidden gem called Homma’s Brown Rice Sushi. You’re not likely to find this place unless you’re looking for it, but for those on a mission to try something different, Homma’s is worth the detour.

The name of the restaurant tells you exactly what to expect, but as some 70 percent of rice eaten in America is white rice, a quick introduction to the main difference between white and brown rice may be warranted for those less familiar with the grain. White rice actually grows as brown rice, a whole grain that includes the bran, germ and endosperm. The rice is then processed to remove the bran and germ, leaving mainly the starchy endosperm; unfortunately, the extracted portions are also what carry most of the grain’s vitamins and fiber. The starchy white rice, then, is more similar to white bread with its mellow taste and fluffiness (and nutritional value), while brown rice is more similar to whole grain bread, having a mild earthy flavor accompanied by a slightly grainy texture.

At Homma’s, Homma himself handles the sushi preparation, while his extremely friendly son handles the ordering. The downside of one mastermind chef is that the queue for food can get quite lengthy, as one man simultaneously juggles eat-in and takeout orders. The restaurant also only seats about a dozen people in plastic chairs with fairly ascetic décor. The potential wait and the atmosphere make me strongly suggest following the lead of those smart enough to call in advance.

What Homma’s lacks in ambiance and efficiency, though, it makes up for with its food. The brown rice aspect of the sushi is executed flawlessly. The flavor is subtle enough not to overwhelm the fish or vegetables, and the texture is just right. Another refreshing aspect of Homma’s is that you will not find rolls drenched in spicy mayonnaise or too tempura-heavy, allowing you to embrace flavor without sacrificing the relatively healthy dimension of their sushi.

The hama-avo (yellowtail, green onion, avocado) and una-avo (BBQ eel and avocado) are highlights of the maki menu. Homma is a perfectionist when it comes to the freshness of his ingredients, helping ensure that one cannot go wrong with some simple tekka maki (tuna) or uni nigiri (sea urchin) for the more adventurous. The vegetable maki, however, is liable to lose something to the brown rice, so I would recommend going with some of the stronger flavors available, such as the gobou (pickled burdock root), shinko (pickled radish) or umekyu (plum and cucumber). The futomaki roll was a bit too ambitious with its size and tried to combine too many subtle ingredients, but overall, the menu is filled with excellent choices.

Off the sushi menu, there was some disappointment in my experience with the inari. Homma’s wraps some of its rice into three envelopes of fried, sweet bean curd. The result is certainly a bit confusing for those used to traditional inari, which is more often wrapped in fried or deep-fried tofu rather than sweet bean curd. The resulting texture of Homma’s wrap is soggy, and the dish is not quite savory enough to be eaten comfortably with the meal nor sweet enough to end it like dessert. Skip this part of the menu.

Despite the occasional slight misfire, I left Homma’s very happy. It’s a great spot with a ton of potential as a take-out staple; avoid the wait and enjoy.