It’s fitting that I’m writing about Rio this week — a cidade maravilhosa — because I just found out that I will be moving there next year. I first flirted with Rio on an orchestra tour in high school, but soon enough I was back, speaking Portuguese (no, contrary to popular belief, I am actually not Brazilian) and studying anything from the Amazon Rainforest to Brazilian literature. I bought a wardrobe’s worth of speedos to wear in Rio — a sun worshipper’s Mecca filled with beautiful people.
But you don’t need to have such an overwhelming commitment to experience Rio. If you speak even a little Spanish, you can communicate with a Brazilian. Actually, you can communicate only with hand gestures. The only thing you really need to say in Portuguese is “Oi, tudo bem?” — “Hey, how’s it going?” Also, a thumbs-up for anything that pleases you is indispensible. You only need to be in the mood for a good time to be accepted in Rio.
The leisurely dress code in Rio is speedos, soccer jerseys, Havaianas flip-flops and board shorts for men, whispy dresses, sandals and colorful anything for women. Less is usually more, especially at the beach. Men wear speedos and women wear triangles. Note that if you are going to or coming from the beach, it is perfectly acceptable to wear a speedo anywhere in the city. Also if you are engaging in any form of physical activity, you’ll usually wear a speedo. This “dress code” applies actually for everyone, which can be a beautiful godsend, other times just a sheer disaster.
At the beach or around town, there is a smattering of small juice shops that also sell things to eat. Look for one that actually has real fruit in the display, and you can’t go wrong. The first thing that I usually eat in Rio is pão de queijo — crispy balls of doughy cheesy goodness — with açaí — a sticky and sweet purple drink filled with antioxidants. Also, there is nothing like sipping on a coconut at the beach and eating biscoitos — crunchy puffy rings of goodness. Don’t leave Brazil without having a caipirinha — a strong drink made from sugar, lime and sugarcane brandy. After two you’ll be speaking português and dancing the samba.
Cariocas (people from Rio) identify strongly with the neighborhood they are from, and these social distinctions are ever prevalent at the beach. The exclusive Leblon is for the rich and famous. You will nearly always see a celebrity of some kind — soccer players, soap opera stars — they all have to go to the beach. Ipanema is classy, young and fun. Surfers hang out at Posto 7, as it is where the waves are best. Posto 8 is primarily for families. Between Postos 8 and 9 is the LGBT beach — you can’t miss the giant rainbow flags. Posto 9 is the young and hip beach and Posto 10 is for the muscle boys — it’s near an open-air weightlifting/show off area. Copacabana is the largest beach, bordered by the famous Avenida Atlântica. It’s more middle-class and mainstream, but very fun.
Besides the beach there are plenty of touristy things to do in Rio. You must see Cristo Redentor — the Jesus statue. The Sambódromo, dancing at an escola de samba and seeing a soccer game at the Maracanã are highly recommended. Pão de Açúcar — the big ‘sugarloaf mountain’ — is nice, but I think the view from Jesus is better. Also, day trips to Parati, Petrópolis or a romantic weekend in Búzios or Ilha Grande are all easy to do. São Paulo is just eight hours by bus.
Nightlife in Rio is second to none. Praça Santos Durmont in Gávea is nice on Thursday or Sunday. Lapa is always happenin’ on the weekends with restaurants, bars, clubs and general revelry in the streets. Bigger clubs are in Copacabana, but if something a little quieter takes your fancy, try an upscale bar/lounge in Leblon or Ipanema. There is nothing wrong with sipping on a drink with an ambience of Bossa Nova.
As far as crime is concerned, what you’ve heard is probably exaggerated. I feel safer in Rio than in Oakland. Aside from petty theft, and if you’re not traipsing through the slums, you’ll be fine. Nonetheless, a true carioca will carry small amounts of cash in both pockets in case one gets ‘borrowed’ from.
So, like the hundreds of people who I’ve invited to stay with me during the World Cup in 2014, I basically offer an open invitation for anyone to come down to visit me in Rio next year. I’m telling you, you’re going to fall in love with this city.
What is your most outrageous beach outfit? Johnny has probably seen worse in Rio — email him at [email protected].