Simmi Sen ’28 is a designer who also studies design and CS at Stanford. Keeping her finger on the pulse of cutting edge of fashion, Sen guides readers through the often unexplored fashion industry in her biweekly column.

The luxury fashion industry is undergoing one of its most dramatic transitions in history. In just over a year, a wave of creative director exits swept through houses like Fendi, Celine, Chanel, Givenchy, Tom Ford and Loewe. These shifts reveal evolving consumer expectations, brand strategies and a redefinition of modern luxury.

Why now? Fatigue, strategy and changing tastes

Creative directors have always been the soul of a fashion house. They don’t just design clothes — they shape a brand’s identity and translate storytelling into garments that drive cultural relevance and commercial success. However, the pressure to constantly innovate while managing global business demands has led to creative fatigue and strategic resets.

Kim Jones stepped down from Fendi in October 2024 after four years of balancing dual roles as artistic director at both Fendi (womenswear and couture) and Dior Men. Hedi Slimane’s at Celine, which was once defined by sharp youth culture, saw diminishing returns as consumer tastes shifted toward quieter luxury. 

To regain momentum, brands are refreshing their creative leadership: Givenchy brought in Sarah Burton in September 2024 for her technical mastery and Demna left Balenciaga in March 2025 to revitalize Gucci after a period of decline.

Post-pandemic, luxury fashion has shifted from maximalism to “quiet luxury,” favoring craftsmanship, subtlety and functionality. This shift is reflected in recent appointments, like Michael Rider at Celine and Sarah Burton at Givenchy.

Rider, formerly at Ralph Lauren and Phoebe Philo’s Celine, brings a refined, minimalist touch. His vision for Celine returns to timeless tailoring and understated elegance and moves away from logo-driven flash.

Burton, known for her emotionally rich work at McQueen, debuted at Givenchy in 2025 with a collection inspired by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Her style merges classic couture with modern precision, blending heritage with fresh perspective.

According to a report by Bain & Company, demand for understated, high-quality fashion rose 12% in 2024. McKinsey projects over 60% of Gen Z luxury buys in 2025 will prioritize quality over brand name. This shift reflects a broader reset in consumer values.

Case study: Versace’s exit and Prada’s strategic expansion

In January 2025, Prada acquired an 80% stake in Versace for €1.25 billion — a notable discount from the $2.15 billion Capri Holdings (then Michael Kors) paid in 2018. Earlier estimates placed Versace’s value closer to €1.5 billion, but recent market volatility — including tariff pressures — contributed to the reduced valuation.

This acquisition reflects a broader restructuring in luxury, where creative leadership and ownership are being reset together. Just as legacy houses appoint new creative directors to redefine identity, Prada’s move reimagines Versace, merging its bold legacy with Prada’s minimalism to appeal to today’s value-driven consumer.

As part of the acquisition, Dario Vitale — formerly at Prada — was appointed to lead Versace, signaling a creative reset. Vitale brings a more sculptural, refined aesthetic, marking a shift from Donatella Versace’s bold, maximalist legacy. While some suggest Prada could’ve negotiated a better deal by waiting, others view the timing as a rare chance to acquire an iconic label at a strategic inflection point.

According to Prada CEO Andrea Guerra in a Prada press release, “Versace has huge potential. The journey will be long and will require disciplined execution and patience.” The move is expected to attract new customers to Prada, blending Versace’s baroque energy with Prada’s minimalist DNA, an emblem of how luxury brands are reinventing themselves in a slower, more value-driven market.

Where are the women?

While luxury fashion is reinventing itself, the gender gap continues to be perpetuated. 

One of fashion’s earliest female-led houses — Lanvin — was founded in 1926 by Jeanne Lanvin, who launched the first made-to-measure menswear line by a Parisian designer. Yet nearly a century later, women remain underrepresented in top creative roles.

While Burton at Givenchy, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Miuccia at Prada and Emily Adams at Bode are notable exceptions, most appointments still go to men — even though women make up the majority of luxury’s consumer base.

Many luxury houses draw creative talent from narrow pipelines — like elite ateliers like Cifonelli, Maison Camps de Luca, and Caraceni — where women are underrepresented or excluded. Even in broader maisons like Dior’s tailoring workrooms or Chanel’s “flou” ateliers, leadership often remains male-dominated. Add this to a lack of mentorship and visibility for women in senior studio roles, and the gap widens further.

As luxury reinvents itself, the gender gap persists. While women make up the majority of the luxury market, few hold top creative roles. As a woman and a designer, I believe more female creative directors aren’t just needed for equity — they’re essential to designing clothes that empower, flatter, and reflect the lived experience of the modern woman.

What this means for fashion’s future

This reshuffle marks a pivotal generational shift. Some brands are reclaiming heritage. Others are embracing reinvention. What unites them is the need to stay relevant in a rapidly evolving market.

Brands are now prioritizing coherence and consistent creative direction over celebrity-driven flash, with less emphasis on star power and more on designers who can deliver a unified vision. 

At the same time, talent mobility is on the rise. Designers like Matthieu Blazy exemplify how creative DNA is increasingly shared across houses, reflecting a more fluid and collaborative industry culture. Functionality and versatility have also become key: consumers now favor well-made, adaptable garments over logo-heavy spectacles, echoing a broader shift toward quality and practicality.

As new creative heads step into place, the 2025 runway calendar will reveal whether these bets pay off. Either way, the next chapter in luxury is underway.